Haljina Bendy Bark
Haljina Kristina Fidelskaya
Ogrlica Swarovski
Arina Maksimova, zvezda naše digitalne majske naslovnice, uspela je da svoje “fizičke nedostatke” pretvori u prednosti kada je posao modela u pitanju. Iskreno smo razgovarali o novom talasu body positive movement-a, bogatoj karijeri i budućim planovima.
Arina, zdravo! Radiš kao model za poznate brendove i modne magazine. Reci nam, molim te, koliko si visoka?
Zdravo, moja visina je 158 cm.
Ogrtač Kristina Fidelskaya
Visina modela preko 170 cm je oduvek smatrana bitnim parametrom kada su u pitanju mere tela. Da li je ova visina i dalje obavezna za modela?
U pravu si, ovo je i dalje jedan od najvažnijih parametara u industriji. Nažalost, devet od deset modeling agencija uopšte ne prihvata visinu ispod 170 cm. Takođe, većina brendova nije spremna da preuzme rizik i da idu ispod ovog standarda.
Poslednjih godina, standardi fizičkih atributa modela su bili znatno promenjeni: body positive movement, + size modeli. Da li misliš da će body standardi uskoro potpuno nestati?
Po meni je ideja da je prihvatanje različitih visina prvi parametar body positvity-ja. Tačno je, plus size modeli su potpuno integrisani u modeling i to je sjajno. Da budemo potpuno ozbiljni, visina je skoro jedna i jedina stvar koju ne možeš da promeniš na svom telu. Možeš da dobiješ ili izgubiš na težini, može biti manje ili više teško, ali je moguće. U isto vreme, ne možeš postati viši ili niži. Zato verujem da bi visina trebalo da bude smatrana jednim od najbitnijih parametara body positive pokreta. Mnogi smatraju da je diskriminacija u modelingu bazirana na parametrima tela, ali ne razmišljaju o ljudima koji se jednostavno ne uklapaju u „idealan“ standard od 170+ cm.
Koje su karakteristike u radu modela sa visinom ispod 170 cm?
Mi smo na sceni gde se ovaj problem ne smatra toliko velikim. Ako ste niski, šansa da ćete potpisati ugovor sa modeling agencijom je skoro 0%. Modeling agencije ne razumeju da nemaju šta da izgube ako počnu da promovišu niske devojke. Sa druge strane, to bi bio izuzetan PR potez za bilo koju modeling agenciju da se deklariše kao prva modeling agencija koja radi sa devojkama koje su ispod 160 cm. Situacija sa freelence poslovima je malo bolja. Često kontaktiram brendove direktno. Mnogo je lakše sada – znaš Instagram nalog i možeš da pokušaš da dođeš do e-mail adrese. Neki brendovi će odgovoriti, neki ne, ali mi je veoma bitno da ispričam svoju priču svaki put. Brendovi neće tek tako zvati devojke da budu deo njihove kampanje, ali ako devojka dokaže da je svaka od tih kampanja mali korak ka razbijanju diskriminacije vezane za oblik tela, situacija će se promeniti.
Haljina Bendy Bark
Kada je visina ispod 170 cm, da li model treba to nečim da nadoknadi? Na primer, da nosi specijalne cipele sa visokim potpeticama? Demonstriranje dobrog izgleda? Ili vođenje ličnog bloga sa velikim brojem pratilaca?
Svakako mora da postoji nešto neobično u vašoj ličnosti ako želite da radite u ovoj industriji bez da se uklapate u tipične stanadrde. To bi moglo da bude vaše lice ili telo, ali ništa se ne isplati više od jedinstvene filozofije, posebno ako pomaže ljudima da prevaziđu sumnju u sebe.
Da li radiš modne revije i da li radiš snimanja?
Radila sam modne revije u Aziji. Ljudi su tamo verniji niskim modelima, zbog njihove građe dok učestvujem u snimanjima širom sveta. Veoma sam srećna, što malo po malo, nalazim način da diskutujem sa brendovima na ovu temu, i neki od njih stvarno razumeju problematiku, podržavaju talas niskih modela i pozivaju me da učestvujem u kampanjama čak i kada su preko 10.000 km daleko. To stvarno cenim, jer ima veliki uticaj na čitavo društvo.
Da li si iskusila diskriminaciju vezanu za visinu kada su, pod jednakim uslovima, izabrali ne tebe već višeg model?
Odgovor je da. To je veoma česta situacija, ali neću pominjati imena bilo kog brenda, jer ih razumem. Uvek je izazovno da počneš da radiš nešto novo. Brendovi i modeling agencije nemaju potrebu za objašnjavanjem, barem mislim. Ljudi prave sopstvene procene. Nekad se čini apsurdno. Srećom, uvek postoje ljudi koji su dovoljno hrabri.
Haljina Kristina Fidelskaya
Ogrlica Swarovski
Da li si ikada morala da ’’dodaješ’’ ekstra centimentre na svoju visinu kako bi dobila određeni ugovor?
Prva dva ugovora sam dobila u Aziji preko modeling agencije koja je znala da sam visoka 158 cm. Kako bi mi pomogli u mojoj misiji, promenili su mi visinu u 168 cm. Dodali su 10 cm, što je mnogo, ali istina je da nijedan brend nije primetio ništa čudno. Radila sam dosta, mnogo više nego visoke devojke. To samo dokazuje da kada te ljudi vide uživo, mnogo više obraćaju pažnju na druge detalje, ali da nismo na papiru izmenili moju visinu, ja ne bih bila tamo i nikad ne bih dobila posao. Sada nikad ne lažem o svojoj visini. Cilj mi je da ispravim stare stereotipe, tako da možete videti da je moja visina od 158 cm skoro svuda, čak i u mom Instagram opisu.
Šta misliš da je najvažnija stvar za uspeh modela? Ako nisu body parametri, šta je to tačno?
Harizma, lična priča i želja da se naporno radi. Ništa više. Vidite, nedavno je devojka u kolicima učestvovala u modnoj reviji po prvi put! Dakle, sve je moguće, ali da bi uspeo, moraš da uložiš trud.
Šta bi bio tvoj savet devojkama ispod 170 cm koje žarko žele da postanu modeli?
Prvo, molim vas, znajte da niste same. Drugo, živite u savršenom trenutku. Ovde ne govorim o internetu i mogućnostima na društvenim mrežama, već o kulturološkim fenomenima generalno. 2022. je vreme body positivity-ja, i nema boljeg momenta za niske modele, tako da ne odustajte. Ako me vidite na naslovnoj strani magazina ili čitate ovaj intervju, to znači da sam korak bliže da ovo sve pretvorim u realnost za svaku od nas.
Haljina Kristina Fidelskaya
Ogrlica Swarovski
English here:
Arina, hi! You work as a model for famous brands and fashion magazines. Tell us, please, what is your height?
Hi, my height is 158 cm.
Model’s height above 170 cm (5 feet 6 inches) has always been considered an important parameter along with body measurements. Is such a height still a mandatory requirement for fashion models?
You are right, and it is still one of the most important parameters in this industry. Unfortunately, 9 model agencies out of 10 don’t even have an option of height below 170 cm. As well as the most of the brands are not ready to take a risk and go out of this standard.
In recent years, the standards of fashion models’ physical attributes have been actively eroded: body positive movement, +size models. Do you think the body standards will soon disappear at all?
I share the idea that height is the fist parameter of body positive. It’s true, +size models are fully integrated in modelling, and that is amazing. Being seriously, height is almost the one and the only you can’t change in your body. You can gain or lose weight: it can be more or less difficult, but it is possible. At the same time you can’t get shorter or taller. That’s why I believe that height should be considered as the most important parameter of body positive movement. Most people know that the discrimination in the modeling business is based on body parameters, but they don’t even think about people who simply don’t fit into this “ideal” standard of 170+ cm.
Ogrtač i šešir Kristina Fidelskaya
What are the features in the work of the model with the height below 170 cm?
We are on the stage, where this problem is not even considered as an issue. If you are petite, then the chance that you will sign a contract with a model agency is almost 0%. Model agencies do not yet understand that they have nothing to lose if they start promoting short girls. On the contrary, it would be a great PR for any model agency to declare “we are the first model agency in history that works with a girl under 160 cm”. However, the situation with freelance is a bit better. I write to brands directly a lot. It is much easier nowadays – you know an Instagram account and you can try to find an email. Some brands will reply, some won’t, but it is very important to me to tell my story every time. Brands won’t invite a random girl to be part of their campaigns, but if this girl proves that each of these campaigns is a small step towards breaking down discrimination based on body type, it will change the situation.
When the height is below 170 cm, does the model have to compensate it somehow? For example, wearing special shoes with high heels? Demonstrating bright appearance? Or running personal blog with wide community of subscribers?
Surely there must be something unusual in your personality if you want to work in this industry without fitting into the typical standards. It could be your face or body, but nothing works better than your own unique philosophy, especially if it helps people to overcome their self-doubt.
Do you work at fashion shows? Do you participate in photo shoots?
I worked at fashion shows in Asia. People there are more loyal to petite models, because of their own features. And I participate in photo shoots all around the world. I am so happy, that little by little I find a way to discuss with brands this topic, and some of them are really getting into it, they support petite models wave inviting me to take part in campaigns even if they are 10.000 miles away. I really appreciate, it has a big impact on society as a whole.
Have you experienced height discrimination? When, other things being equal, they chose not you, but a higher model?
The answer is yes. It’s very common situation, but I’m not going to mention any brands’ names, because I can understand them. It’s always very scary to start doing something new. There is no explanation needed about models agencies’ and brands’ choices, I think. People see everything by themselves. It seems absurdly sometimes. Thankfully, there are always people who are brave enough.
Haljina Katrine K
Rukavice Romani
Have you ever had to add extra centimetres to your height in order to get a certain contract?
I got my first two contracts in Asia through an agency that knew that I was 158 cm tall. In order to help me with my mission, they changed my height to 168 cm. They added 10 centimetres, and that’s a lot, but the truth is that no brand noticed anything strange. And I worked a lot, much more than tall girls. It just proves once again that when people see you in person, they pay attention to other details, but if we didn’t put my height formally on paper, I would never get a job there. Now I never lie about my height. It is my goal to brain old stereotypes, so you will see that my height is 158 cm almost everywhere, even in my Instagram bio.
What do you think is the most important thing for a model to be successful? If not body parameters, then what is it?
The charisma, personal story and a desire to work hard. Nothing else. Look, recently even a girl in a wheelchair participated in a fashion show for the first time! So everything is possible, but in order to make it possible for you, you have to put in the effort.
What would you advise for girls under 170 cm who are dying to become a fashion model?
First of all, please, know that you are not alone. Secondly, you live in a perfect time. And I’m not talking about internet and social media opportunities, but about cultural phenomenon in general. 2022 is a time of body positive, there will never be a better moment for petite models, so don’t give up. If you see me on the cover of the magazine and reading this interview, it means that I am close to bringing this reality closer for each of you.
Bodi Anais Mali
Čizme Poison Design
Interviewed by Natalia Drachinskaya
Team:
Photographer & producer:
Amer Mohamad @shootmeamer www.amermohamad.com
Model: Arina Maksimova @arina.maks
Style: Sleiman Dayaa @slimi7
Hair: Osama @osamahairstylist
Makeup: Zeina Mechaalany @paintedby_z
Key Light assitant: Anna Kaganovich @anna_artlight
Light assitant: Yasir Ali Shah @yasir__ali__shah
